Our first full day in Oaxaca started at 9:30 in the morning after we had a luxurious sleep in and a cup of java in our apartment. We ventured out to find a good bakery (panaderia) and another coffee. One which was highly recommended on YouTube—Pan con Madre—was about a ten-minute walk from our apt.  We were not disappointed. Pastries were delicious and the coffee nice and strong! After coffee we explored a nearby plaza market in search of fruit, yogurt and milk for breakfast the next day. We then dropped in on a restaurant which was highly recommended—Los Danzantes—to check the menu and make reservations. We discovered that this place is very popular with tourists since it has been promoted by Chris Bayliss, an internet celebrity chef. We were able to make a reservation for Tuesday. We did, however, find another tourist favorite—Las Quince Letras—and made reservations. While there we met the most interesting man, Tomas Lopez Chinai. He was waiting for his wife and daughters, and we had the occasion to have a long chat. He is a writer who is a native Zapotec from southern Mexico. He came to Oaxaca to receive prize money for a short story he wrote in his native Zapotec language about life growing up in his village.  He spoke fluent English and his daughters had amazing success as students in the US: two graduated from Stanford and one is going to Harvard!

In the afternoon we attempted to return to Las Quince but managed to get twisted around trying to follow Google Maps without a good wifi connection. Eventually, we flagged a taxi and had the driver weave his way through the very heavy holiday traffic. This turned out to be another wonderful encounter. Tito, a native Oaxacan, who had worked in the state of Washington for eight years in construction, was a very amiable man who wanted to practice his English as I practiced my Spanish. 

Quince Letras was fabulous with a comfortable, quiet ambiance. Founded in 1992, it is now a very popular spot with an interesting menu. Paula had a fish cioppino-like stew. I had a Trilogy of Moles.  Both were muy sabrosa! We continue to meet wonderful, friendly people everywhere we go!

Typical street mural

Pan con Madre

Pan con Madre

Beautiful women

Paula's new friend

Oaxacan griffiti

Esteban